silverbolt143
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 posted on 30-7-2010 at 10:55 |
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White patch on my Emperor
Previously i'm doing hypo-salinity treatment for about 2 months. then 5 days ago after satisfied with my fishes condition, i started to raise the
water salinity back to 1.012 from 1.009. also put new activated carbon 3 days ago inside the sump...
However, some of the fish seems not doing fine...my juvi emperor seems developing white patches around the bodies and he's doing some rapid moves
some times like electrocuted & wanna jump out of the tank..however he's still eating.....other fish seems OK at the moment...
My tank spec:
3 feet main tank, 2 feet sump (inside: weipro 2011 skimmer, return pump 2000lph, DSB in one compartment)....
Water quality:
PH:8.1
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 20 ppm
There seems no indication of ich on my Emperor. Just the white patch all over the body and its weird behavior. Appreciate any advice?
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Raytay
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![[*]](./images/Mystic2/default_icon.gif) posted on 30-7-2010 at 16:19 |
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hi bro silverbolt,
not sure this will help you or not... but when my fishes got problem.. i alway refer to this website to see the issue;
http://www.chucksaddiction.com/disease.html
good luck
Ocean Aquarium 23.5"x12"x14"
Eheim 2213 Canister
Kotobuki Powerbox SV Mini DMI-01
Resun Wave Maker Waver-2000
Resun SK300 Skimmer
Atman UV-Filter UV-9W
Phosban Reactor (NP-BioPellet)
JEBO F6020 Fan Cooling System
Dolphin MC-789
Shanda Electronic Heater 350W
Light LED 18W (10w8b)
Light LED 9W (5w4b) with dimmer
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Indym
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| posted on 30-7-2010 at 17:50 |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by silverbolt143
Previously i'm doing hypo-salinity treatment for about 2 months. then 5 days ago after satisfied with my fishes condition, i started to raise the
water salinity back to 1.012 from 1.009. also put new activated carbon 3 days ago inside the sump...
However, some of the fish seems not doing fine...my juvi emperor seems developing white patches around the bodies and he's doing some rapid moves
some times like electrocuted & wanna jump out of the tank..however he's still eating.....other fish seems OK at the moment...
My tank spec:
3 feet main tank, 2 feet sump (inside: weipro 2011 skimmer, return pump 2000lph, DSB in one compartment)....
Water quality:
PH:8.1
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 20 ppm
There seems no indication of ich on my Emperor. Just the white patch all over the body and its weird behavior. Appreciate any advice?
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Could be bacterial or fungal. Melafix and Pimafix work, but they are very mild treatments.
For a full bacterial treatment, you need a proper antibiotic like Sera Baktopur Direct. It comes in tablet form, put the suggested number in an area
of high flow and remove carbon. More importantly, the antibiotic used in this product is Nifurpirinol, and Nifurpirinol is photodegradable. So turn of
all lights and cover the top. It doesn't need to be completely dark, some ambient light is fine. Treatment lasts for 3 days. Just to be sure, treat
for a week and see how. It may have a slight effect on your biological filter so you may get a slight ammonia and nitrite reading. Products such as
Seachem Prime and ammolock will help here.
[Edited on 30-7-2010 by Indym]
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silverbolt143
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| posted on 31-7-2010 at 02:05 |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Raytay
hi bro silverbolt,
not sure this will help you or not... but when my fishes got problem.. i alway refer to this website to see the issue;
http://www.chucksaddiction.com/disease.html
good luck |
Thanks, very informative page....
| Quote: | Originally posted by Indym
Could be bacterial or fungal. Melafix and Pimafix work, but they are very mild treatments.
For a full bacterial treatment, you need a proper antibiotic like Sera Baktopur Direct. It comes in tablet form, put the suggested number in an area
of high flow and remove carbon. More importantly, the antibiotic used in this product is Nifurpirinol, and Nifurpirinol is photodegradable. So turn of
all lights and cover the top. It doesn't need to be completely dark, some ambient light is fine. Treatment lasts for 3 days. Just to be sure, treat
for a week and see how. It may have a slight effect on your biological filter so you may get a slight ammonia and nitrite reading. Products such as
Seachem Prime and ammolock will help here.
[Edited on 30-7-2010 by Indym] |
Ok thanks for the advice, that's very helpful....i've upload some photos.hopefully it may give u guy clear picture of my emperor condition....
[Edited on 30-7-2010 by silverbolt143]
[Edited on 30-7-2010 by silverbolt143]
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Indym
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| posted on 31-7-2010 at 02:44 |
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If you can confirm that its not a parasite like velvet (Hypo doesn't kill velvet) or a water quality issue, then its most likely a fungal or
bacterial infection. Personally, that doesn't look like a parasite problem. But i could be wrong.
Assuming its isn't parasites, you got three options bro. Put them all in quarantine and treat with an antibiotic. If that is not possible, then
pimafix and melafix (Treat together) may be your best options as they are quite reef safe. Last option involves the risk of treating the display tank
with an antibiotic but i cannot guarantee the absence of an ammonia or nitrite spike. Either way, i think you have to act quick. Good luck.
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silverbolt143
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| posted on 31-7-2010 at 03:27 |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Indym
If you can confirm that its not a parasite like velvet (Hypo doesn't kill velvet) or a water quality issue, then its most likely a fungal or
bacterial infection. Personally, that doesn't look like a parasite problem. But i could be wrong.
Assuming its isn't parasites, you got three options bro. Put them all in quarantine and treat with an antibiotic. If that is not possible, then
pimafix and melafix (Treat together) may be your best options as they are quite reef safe. Last option involves the risk of treating the display tank
with an antibiotic but i cannot guarantee the absence of an ammonia or nitrite spike. Either way, i think you have to act quick. Good luck.
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My tank was FOWLR....Previously i did Hypo because my blue tang was infected with ick...under hypo, none of my fishes showing any kind of sickness or
death.....after 2 months, i start raising the salinity to 1.012...
Next day my blue tang jump out the tank kill himself, then saw my emperor skin getting this patches, and my sailfin getting slimy coat around the
eyes....
Now the emperor seems getting weaker and start floating on the surface...hopefully he can survive another day before i can start any treatment....
There are no sign of white grain or tiny spot on all my fishes... Tonite result from my water testing are still ok...
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abrabra
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| posted on 31-7-2010 at 10:55 |
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that's "water mark"
Normally emperor or majesty will get those if the water codition having problem, after fwd or stress
After hypo, increase the salinity slowly i.e. 0.001~2 ...do not suddenly increase too much
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silverbolt143
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| posted on 31-7-2010 at 11:58 |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by abrabra
that's "water mark"
Normally emperor or majesty will get those if the water codition having problem, after fwd or stress
After hypo, increase the salinity slowly i.e. 0.001~2 ...do not suddenly increase too much |
Thanks for the feedbacks....one more thing, now remember i accidently stir my remote DSB when cleaning my sump...but just the surface, my remote DSB
around 6 inches.....could it be sulphur leak? Sh*t i dont have any sulphur testkit at the moment....
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silverbolt143
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| posted on 31-7-2010 at 12:04 |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by abrabra
that's "water mark"
Normally emperor or majesty will get those if the water codition having problem, after fwd or stress
After hypo, increase the salinity slowly i.e. 0.001~2 ...do not suddenly increase too much |
Thanks for the feedbacks....one more thing, now remember i accidently stir my remote DSB when cleaning my sump...but just the surface, my remote DSB
around 6 inches.....could it be any "toxic gas" leak?
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samkuek
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| posted on 31-7-2010 at 20:19 |
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From the pictures can see the fish is in a quite serious condition. Beside the body patches, the tail tissue is rotting (bacterial infection). The
darting (rapid move) and vibrating (electrocuted) is actually sign of parasite, though the tank has gone through 2 months of hyposalinity.
Many times water marks are triggered by parasite, (more than water quality problem that most will beleived), though we may not see any white spots on
fish body, it could be brooklynella.
There are 2 issues here, almost at the same time the DSB was "disturb", that could caused a momentary ammonia spike, thats the reason fishes are
jumping trying to escape from the water, by now, the ammonia spike could has been settle, otherwise will caused more serious problem to other
fishes.
If the fish is turning weak now, any kind of treatment is not going to help much. Especially FWB, formalin bath or copper treatment may kill the fish
even faster. Antibiotic treatment hard to see result if the fish is still infested by parasite.
However, can still give the antibiotic treatment a try.
[Edited on 31-7-2010 by samkuek]
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silverbolt143
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| posted on 1-8-2010 at 04:35 |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by samkuek
From the pictures can see the fish is in a quite serious condition. Beside the body patches, the tail tissue is rotting (bacterial infection). The
darting (rapid move) and vibrating (electrocuted) is actually sign of parasite, though the tank has gone through 2 months of hyposalinity.
Many times water marks are triggered by parasite, (more than water quality problem that most will beleived), though we may not see any white spots on
fish body, it could be brooklynella.
There are 2 issues here, almost at the same time the DSB was "disturb", that could caused a momentary ammonia spike, thats the reason fishes are
jumping trying to escape from the water, by now, the ammonia spike could has been settle, otherwise will caused more serious problem to other
fishes.
If the fish is turning weak now, any kind of treatment is not going to help much. Especially FWB, formalin bath or copper treatment may kill the fish
even faster. Antibiotic treatment hard to see result if the fish is still infested by parasite.
However, can still give the antibiotic treatment a try.
[Edited on 31-7-2010 by samkuek] |
Thanks everybody for the advices...As expected, my emperor RIP tonite...i just started dosing Melafix but his condition already getting worst and the
fin almost tear up...
It's my fault that lately i couldnt pay close attention to my tank due to office work load...However, lots of lesson learnt and i'm not gonna give
up....
Thanks again everybody....
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samkuek
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| posted on 1-8-2010 at 12:22 |
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For FOWLR, the best and easiest option is to treat fish with FWB followed by 1 month copper treatment. This procedure seldom has problem and after
that your fishes will seldom have problem.
Forget about hyposalinity, formalin bath and so on..
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WormHook
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| posted on 1-8-2010 at 18:32 |
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so, sam u mean normally we only need to do copper treatment for new fish?
can copper treatment treat bacterial infection or it only treatment for parasite?
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kzariman
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| posted on 1-8-2010 at 18:38 |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by WormHook
so, sam u mean normally we only need to do copper treatment for new fish?
can copper treatment treat bacterial infection or it only treatment for parasite? |
yes i want to know too.. good to hear from FOWLR sifu.. 
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samkuek
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| posted on 1-8-2010 at 23:34 |
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If an aquarium is not over crowded and has a powerful and effective biological filteration system, it is hard for a fish to get bacterial
infection.
Bacterial infection usually is the second problem following the first problem of parasite infestation. That is the reason it is also known as
"secondary bacterial infection".
Fresh water bath (FWB) & copper treatment only taking care of external parasite, not bacteria.
Bear in mind that bacteria is present everywhere and not possible to be totally eliminated in an aquarium. However, without the threatening of the
most dangerous parasites, fishes will not have bacterial infection problem.
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Indym
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| posted on 2-8-2010 at 00:30 |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by samkuek
If an aquarium is not over crowded and has a powerful and effective biological filteration system, it is hard for a fish to get bacterial
infection.
Bacterial infection usually is the second problem following the first problem of parasite infestation. That is the reason it is also known as
"secondary bacterial infection". |
Reefers have to take proactive measures with regards to bacterial or fungal infections. While our tanks may have adequate biological filtration, the
holding tanks that held the fish during collection and transportation may not.
The worse case scenario being fishes that have an infection that do no exhibit any outward signs, like deeper water fish that are developing a swim
bladder infection while they are on sale. They're may not be tilting or exhibiting swim bladder dysfunction at the time of purchase but it may
develop a week or two after. Its better to treat for such infections just to be on the safe side.
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WormHook
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| posted on 2-8-2010 at 20:10 |
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banyak-banyak terima kasih.... i know what to do already i'm plan to have
a FOT next year. thank for the guide 
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